Selfridges mus Bold Nrog Sweeping Net Zero Cov Lus Cog Tseg, Tab sis Lawv Puas Muaj Tseeb?

Lub sij hawm tseem ceeb xav tau kev ua siab tawv thiab nyob rau hauv rooj plaub ntawm cov khw muag khoom Selfridges, nws txhais tau tias teeb tsa lawv lub hom phiaj zero emissions 10 xyoo ua ntej lub sijhawm. Xyoo 2020 lawv tau teeb tsa lub hom phiaj kev tshawb fawb (SBTs) rau kev txo qis kev tso pa tawm thoob plaws lawv lub khw, chaw ua haujlwm, thiab khw muag khoom online. Lawv cov emissions muaj raws li hauv qab no: Scope 1 yog lawv cov emissions ncaj qha los ntawm khw muag khoom thiab chaw ua hauj lwm, 2 yog lawv indirect emissions los ntawm lub zog mus rau lub hwj chim rau lawv lub khw thiab chaw ua hauj lwm, thiab 3 yog emissions generated thaum lub sij hawm tsim thiab thauj cov khoom thiab cov kev pab cuam lawv yuav, muag thiab siv. Selfridges tau cog lus rau net xoom emissions nyob rau hauv tag nrho peb lub peev xwm los ntawm 2040, tshaj tawm lub hom phiaj hnub no hauv lawv Daim Ntawv Qhia Ntiaj Teb.

Rau Selfridges, Scope 3 tso nyiaj rau 95% ntawm cov neeg muag khoom tag nrho cov emissions, tab sis cov emissions no yog sab nraud ntawm lawv cov kev tswj ncaj qha, sib sib zog nqus hauv cov chains ntawm cov hom thiab cov neeg muag khoom lawv yuav khoom los ntawm. Yog li yuav ua li cas net xoom emissions yuav ua tiav los ntawm txoj haujlwm me me kom tsis muaj kev tswj hwm?

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Influence tiv thaiv kev tswj

Thaum lub sijhawm Project Earth qhia luv luv ntawm Oxford Street khw, kuv tau tham nrog lub tuam txhab Tus Thawj Coj ntawm Sustainability, Rosie Forsyth, uas tau piav qhia txog Selfridges tias yog "tus neeg sau thiab tus neeg muaj kev cuam tshuam los txhawb kev xaiv kev ruaj ntseg"—tus saib xyuas kev ruaj ntseg, yog tias koj nyiam. Cov khw muag khoom nyob hauv nruab nrab ntawm cov neeg siv khoom thiab cov neeg muag khoom ntawm cov khoom, tab sis lawv puas tuaj yeem cuam tshuam rau hauv cov khoom lag luam ntawm lawv cov neeg muag khoom, kom ntseeg tau tias cov neeg thib peb tau teeb tsa thiab ua kom tau raws li lub hom phiaj ntawm kev txo qis emissions, kom Selfridges tuaj yeem ntsib lawv tus kheej? "Selfridges cog lus tias 10% ntawm peb cov neeg muab khoom siv los ntawm kev tso pa tawm suav nrog kev xa khoom thiab cov khoom lag luam yuav muaj SBTs los ntawm 2024" hais tias tsab ntawv ceeb toom, tab sis txawm tias qhov no ua tiav, SBTs puas yuav raug teeb tsa thiab ua haujlwm rau lub sijhawm rau 2030, tom qab ntawd 2040 lub hom phiaj? Kuv yeej tsis khob qhov ambition, tab sis qhov no yuav xav tau kev sib koom tes ntau heev los ntawm ntau tus neeg sab nrauv kom tau ze rau lub hom phiaj no.

Tsis tas li ntawd, yog tias lub siab Selfridges ua rau cov hom lag luam thiab cov neeg muag khoom puas ripple los ntawm cov saw hlau thiab ua rau emissions-txo cov dej num, Selfridges yuav taug qab thiab ntsuas qhov no li cas? Txog tam sim no, 'dub qhov' muaj nyob qhov twg ntau ntawm cov ntaub ntawv tseem ceeb rau kev suav yuav yog. Thiab yog tias cov ntaub ntawv nyob ntawd, nws tau sau los ntawm ntau txoj hauv kev, ntau hom ntawv thiab digital, thiab muaj los ntawm cov neeg muaj feem cuam tshuam, uas tsis muaj lub luag haujlwm (lossis feem ntau, kev txhawb siab) los qhia nws. Cov hom muaj lub sijhawm nyuaj nkag mus rau cov ntaub ntawv no, yog li yuav ua li cas Selfridges, leej twg tseem yog lwm kauj ruam tshem tawm?

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Ntsuas cov khoom thiab cov khoom cuam tshuam

Tam sim no, tib txoj kev txhim khu kev qha los ntsuas Scope 3 qhov cuam tshuam hauv cov khoom xa khoom thaum nyob ntawm caj npab ntev yog siv cov ntaub ntawv nruab nrab thoob ntiaj teb uas tuaj nrog ntau qhov kev xav raws li nws muaj kev txwv. Txawm li cas los xij, muaj qee qhov xov xwm zoo nyob rau pem hauv ntej no. Tsis pub dhau Scope 3, cov kws tshaj lij tau xaus lus tias qee cov ntaub ntawv nruab nrab thoob ntiaj teb teeb tsa ntawm cov khoom siv hluav taws xob muaj kev ntseeg siab vim muaj cov thev naus laus zis thiab cov txheej txheem ua tiav. Ntau cov ntaub ntawv uas ntsuas cov khoom siv cuam tshuam, suav nrog cov nyiam ntawm TrusTrace thiab GreenStory, siv cov 'cov ntaub ntawv hauv paus' thiab tom qab ntawd muab cov ntaub ntawv tseem ceeb ntxiv los ntawm cov txheej txheem xa khoom tshwj xeeb rau nqaij tawm cov kev ntsuam xyuas raug rau cov khoom lossis cov khoom. Selfridges tau ua ib qho kev mob siab rau kev taug qab cov khoom cuam tshuam los ntawm lawv 'kev ntsuam xyuas khoom siv' thiab cov kev cai tsim software tsim los daws cov teeb meem ntawm tag nrho cov khoom lawv yuav, siv thiab muag; los ntawm ntawv mus rau nqaij, rau paj rwb thiab polyester. Hauv kev ua qhov no, lawv tau txheeb xyuas thiab ua tiav 9 cov ntaub ntawv tseem ceeb, los ntawm ntim, hauv lawv cov khoom muag.

Qhov no yog ib qho tseem ceeb thiab nthuav, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog thaum nws nthuav dav zaub mov thiab zam, kev ua liaj ua teb, thiab textiles. Cov ntaub ntawv ntim cov ntaub ntawv los ntawm cov cuab yeej no tau qhia rau Selfridges 'ib puag ncig thiab kev coj ua raws li kev coj noj coj ua, uas lawv thov kom txhua tus neeg xa khoom thiab cov npe ua raws li kev cia siab tias lawv txo lawv cov khoom cuam tshuam los ntawm kev muab khoom zoo dua. Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm zam, lub siab tshaj plaws ntim cov ntaub ntawv yog, unsurprisingly, paj rwb thiab polyester. Tab sis rau tag nrho cov kev txawj ntse thiab kev rau siab ntawm no, tej zaum yuav muaj ib tug chink nyob rau hauv lub armor.

Cov ntaub ntawv khoob

Cov ntaub ntawv teev txog kev cuam tshuam ntawm cov khoom siv raw muaj nyob, uas Selfridges tuaj yeem ua rau muaj kev ntseeg siab. Tab sis cov khoom siv raw thiab fiber ntau cov theem tsuas yog kwv yees li ntawm 14% ntawm cov khoom emissions (raws li World Apparel Lifecycle Database kev tshawb pom). Yuav luag 80% ntawm cov emissions yog nyob rau hauv cov xov paj spinning, textile processing, thiab dyeing theem: cov cheeb tsam uas cov ntaub ntawv yog nyob ze ntawm tsis yooj yim sua kom nkag tau mus rau, txawm tias thaum nws kaw. Yog txo cov khoom raug cuam tshuam yog Selfridges 'lub tswv yim tseem ceeb rau kev ua tiav Scope 3 lub hom phiaj, cov pov thawj taw qhia rau net xoom ua tsis tau. Hypothetically, txawm tias tag nrho lawv cov neeg muag khoom tau tswj hwm cov khoom siv raw nrog ib nrab ntawm qhov cuam tshuam tam sim no, uas tsuas yog txo qis Scope 3 emissions los ntawm 7%, thaum Selfridges tau cog lus tias yuav "txo kom meej meej 3 lub tsev cog khoom emissions los ntawm kev yuav khoom thiab kev pabcuam los ntawm 30. % los ntawm 2030 ". Kuv tau nug kom paub meej ntxiv txog seb feem ntau ntawm cov kev cuam tshuam emissions (uas yog nyob rau hauv fiber ntau thiab textile processing theem) yuav nrhiav tau, thiab yuav ua li cas cov ntaub ntawv kev sib tw yuav kov yeej, thiab yuav muab hloov tshiab nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm.

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Zoo, qhov ntawd tau txais qhov tob heev, nrawm heev, vim tias qhov pib taw tes yog daim ntawv qhia txog kev ruaj ntseg ntawm kev txo qis emissions thiab txo cov neeg yuav khoom eco-kev ntxhov siab. Hauv lub sijhawm luv luv, Selfridges Tus Thawj Coj Tus Thawj Coj Andrew Keith tau piav qhia tias "80% ntawm peb cov neeg siv khoom txhawj xeeb txog kev hloov pauv huab cua" thiab ntau tus ntawm lawv saib rau Selfridges los pab lawv txiav txim siab yuav 'ntau dua'. Selfridges 'lub luag hauj lwm yog tseeb nyob rau hauv daim duab no cov neeg siv khoom, thiab ntawm chav kawm, ib tug for-profit retailer yuav tsum loj hlob thiab txuas ntxiv mus muag ntau yam khoom. Ib qho lus nug ntxiv uas kuv tau nug hauv email rov qab yog seb qhov kev lag luam zoo li cas hu rau kev muag khoom ntau xyoo rau xyoo kom ua tiav kev loj hlob thiab muaj txiaj ntsig. Ib zaug ntxiv, kuv yuav muab cov kev hloov tshiab thaum kuv tau txais lawv.

Ib lub hom phiaj ntxiv hauv tsab ntawv ceeb toom yog tias Selfridges lub hom phiaj rau 45% ntawm kev lag luam los ntawm cov khoom lag luam (uas lawv piav qhia txog kev muag khoom (thib ob), qiv, kho, rov ua dua, lossis rov ua dua tshiab). "Recycled" nyob rau hauv cov ntsiab lus no txhais tau hais tias muaj tsawg kawg yog 50% cov ntaub ntawv pov thawj rov ua dua tshiab, raws li tau piav qhia los ntawm Rosie Forsyth. Nws tsis paub meej tias qhov no 45% ntawm tus lej hloov pauv sib npaug li cas hauv cov ntsiab lus txo qis, lossis nws yuav ntsuas li cas. Tab sis qhov tseeb yog qhov loj ntawm qhov kev sib tw, vim tias tsuas yog 1% ntawm kev muag khoom tam sim no los ntawm cov khoom 'cim'.

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Selfridges 'kev vam meej kom deb li deb

Selfridges tau ua tiav 13% txo qis hauv 1 thiab 2 emissions hauv 2021, thiab tab tom npaj kom txo qis ntxiv 51% los ntawm 2022-2030, piv rau xyoo 2018 hauv paus.

Rau Scope 3, Selfridges tsis tau tshaj tawm txog kev nce qib mus rau hnub tim tab sis cog lus tias yuav txo qis emissions los ntawm kev yuav khoom thiab kev pab cuam los ntawm 30% los ntawm 2030 los ntawm xyoo 2018. Yog tias qhov no yuav tsum ua tiav, nws zoo li qhov txo qis ntawm cov pa tawm los ntawm cov xov paj thiab cov khoom siv textile yuav yog qhov tseem ceeb, tab sis nrog rau cov kev sib tw thiab cov teeb meem yav dhau los tau piav qhia, txoj hauv kev ua ntej zoo li tsis zoo. Ib lub zog tuaj yeem txiav txim siab qhov chaw nyob ntawm cov xov paj thiab textile ua rau cov khoom lag luam hauv lawv cov cuab yeej software thiab txiav tawm ntawm lub zog sib xyaw hauv cov teb chaws, kom paub meej txog cov khoom siv hluav taws xob tauj dua tshiab.

Levers thiab kev txwv rau txo Scope 3 emissions

Cov chaw tsim khoom siv textile nrog cov khoom siv hluav taws xob txuas ntxiv siab tshaj plaws muab kev cuam tshuam tam sim thiab meej meej, tab sis dua, qhov no yog nyob rau hauv cov khoom siv thiab ntawm caj npab ntev los ntawm Selfridges. Qhov no kuj yog ib lub tswv yim txaus ntshai nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm tus nqi thiab kev sib raug zoo vim tias cov teb chaws tsim khoom nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb sab qab teb tawm tsam kom nkag mus rau cov khoom siv hluav taws xob tauj dua tshiab, piv rau cov nyob hauv ntiaj teb sab qaum teb; Kev cuam tshuam los ntawm cov teb chaws tsim khoom xws li Tuam Tshoj, Bangladesh, thiab Is Nrias teb yuav muaj kev cuam tshuam loj rau kev noj qab haus huv ntawm cov neeg ua haujlwm textile thiab tsoos tsho hauv cov teb chaws, uas tsis muaj kev ntseeg ntau ntawm cov khoom Selfridges muag yog tsim. Hauv Selfridges 'cov ntaub ntawv, nws tseem yuav muaj qhov tsis sib xws nrog lawv lub hauv paus tseem ceeb rau "Ua rau Lub Hom Phiaj [thiab] txiav txim siab ruaj khov uas pab txhawb rau yav tom ntej zoo dua".

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Cov kauj ruam tom ntej no suav nrog "tsim ib txoj hauv kev zoo rau kev ntsuas peb qhov 3 hneev taw thiab ib txoj hauv kev uas yuav ua rau peb mus txog xoom xoom los ntawm 2040," daim ntawv qhia. Tab sis cov complexities muaj ntau, thiab qhov twg 95% ntawm Selfridges emissions muaj kev txhawj xeeb, lub hom phiaj ntawm kev tawm tsam tseem tsis tau txhais los yog, qhov tseem ceeb, nyob rau hauv qhov chaw.

Tau qhov twg los: https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2022/09/02/selfridges-goes-bold-with-sweeping-net-zero-commitments-but-are-they-realistic/