Yuav ua li cas Nensi Dojaka, Christopher Kane, Dilara, Annie's Ibiza & Harris Reed puag lub cev ntawm LFW

Muaj ntau daim tawv nqaij ntawm kev qhia ntawm London zam lub limtiam tab sis cov tswv yim hais tau khiav ntau dua li cov tawv nqaij sib sib zog nqus nrog cov neeg tsim qauv puag lub cev sab hauv thiab sab nraud.

LVMH nqi zog tus yeej thiab daim ntawv tshaj tawm tus ntxhais rau qhov hnav ris tsho liab qab, Nensi Dojaka muab kev txhawb nqa ntxiv rau ntawm Kendall Jenner tsis muaj ris tsho cheb catwalk thiab taug kev. Pem teb grazing fishtails nyob rau hauv lub lightest ntawm lace chiffon thiab gossamer zoo tulle tuaj zoo tuned nrog sculptural cutout nthuav dav lub cev thaum ntxiv cov muaju "tsim lub illusion ntawm txawm lightness" tus tsim hais tias backstage.

Bodysuit los yog catsuit versions kuj hais txog nws lub siab xav thawb rab koob kom "saib seb peb tuaj yeem ua cov khaub ncaws yav tsaus ntuj li cas rau qhov txias dua thiab yau dua uas xav tias tshiab dua."

"Peb tab tom nkag mus rau theem tsawg dua," nws hais ntxiv, nws kuj tseem nthuav dav nws lub khaub ncaws thaum txuas ntxiv mus puag lub cev nrog ntau cov khaub ncaws ntau dua li yav dhau los "kom nqa qhov peb ua ntau dua txhua hnub."

Christopher Kane yog unfailingly tshwm sim los ntawm peb biology thiab dab tsi nyob hauv qab daim tawv nqaij. Ib qho kev ua kom zoo dua qub ntawm qhov pom kev sib txawv, nws cov khaub ncaws cocktail bustle ua kom ntseeg tau tias hauv qab coj mus rau theem nruab nrab. Tab sis leej twg xav tias qhov kev siv keeb kwm yuav tsum paub tias Kane yog qhov chaw sab laug ntau dua thaum nws los txog rau nws cov kev cuam tshuam.

Cov duab tau tshwm sim los ntawm cov hnyuv tsis sib haum, nws piav qhia. "Nws pib tawm lub caij dhau los vim kuv tau ua si nrog lub cev zoo li cov leeg," nws hais. "Kuv tsis xav kom lub bustle ua ib tug nod rau Victoriana." Kev tshawb fawb tsis tseeb yog lwm Kane tas li - nws tau nthuav tawm cov lus hais ua ntej lub lim tiam ntawm Vogue x Snap AR exhibition, "Redefining the Body" - tab sis lub sij hawm no nws tau los ua kev tshawb fawb qhov tseeb thaum nws tab tom pib sim nrog kev txawj ntse. Ib txhia ntawm nws prints nrog rau cov npua yog lub computer generated. Vim li cas npua? "Thaum nws los txog rau peb DNA, peb yog 98% tib yam."

Annie's Ibiza Annie Doble tau ua yeeb yam thawj zaug hauv lub lim tiam. Nws lub npe nyiam los ntawm Kate Moss uas muaj nws ntawm kev hu xovtooj nrawm, pib lub neej muag khaub ncaws vintage hauv thaj chaw ntawm lub fortress hauv Ibiza thiab qhib lub khw hauv London's Carnaby Street xyoo 2020 nrog kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm vintage, tawm cov ntawv zoo li Miley Cyrus nyiam Miss Sohee. thiab tam sim no nws tus kheej tsim thiab.

Lub hedonistic, tog centric collection yog tag nrho cov sourced thiab, qhov twg ua tau, ua nyob rau hauv lub UK siv deadstock thiab sustainable fabrics. Txawm li cas los xij, ntau lub cev baring zoo li yog tsim los muab pov rau ntawm bikini hauv Ibiza. Cia li hu nws puam mus boite.

Dilara Findikoglu Lub Caij Nplooj Ntoos Zeeg '23 yog hais txog kev tswj hwm lub cev. Tus tsim qauv tau txais kev tshoov siab los ntawm Iranian kev tawm tsam tshwm sim los ntawm kev tua neeg ntawm Mahsa Amini rau kev ua txhaum lub teb chaws txoj cai hnav khaub ncaws.

Tsis txhob txaj muag los ntawm kev tsis sib haum xeeb Findikoglu ua kev zoo siab rau poj niam lub cev nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov duab thiab qhov ntau thiab tsawg nrog feathered bikinis thiab feem ntau lub txiv mis baring corsets nyob rau hauv sheer fabrications thiab veils uas kuj yog ib tug nod rau lub burka. "Cov poj niam lub cev tau siv ntau dhau," nws hais tom qab nws ua yeeb yam hauv Ib lub tsev teev ntuj East London. "Kuv xav ua kuv lub luag haujlwm thiab tsa kuv lub suab ua poj niam."

Lub corset embellished nrog resin dipped paj, ib tug txheej txheem uas nws tsim nyob rau hauv nws kawm tiav sau, muaj cai "Tsis yog koj hom paj" - ib nqe lus hais txog lub objectification ntawm lub cev zoo li paj nyob rau hauv lub vase. Cov ntawv sau nws tus kheej tau hu ua "Tsis Yog Ib Tug Txiv Neej."

Ob Annie's Ibiza thiab Dilara qhia tau hais tias tseem muaj cov khau khau los ntawm London raws li vegan khau daim ntawv lo Piferi. Lub npe, paub txog nws cov qauv octane siab yav dhau los tau koom tes nrog Ludovic de Saint Sernin.

Rau Harris Reed uas tau qhia demi Couture tawm lub sijhawm ua ntej ntawm lub lim tiam. Tus tsim qauv uas yuav nthuav tawm nws qhov kev sau ua ntej rau Nina Ricci hauv Paris lub hli tom ntej thaum lub sijhawm Paris zam lub limtiam juxtaposed daim ntawv haum ob daim tawv nqaij daim nrog sculptural ntsiab los tsim tshiab super ntuj thiab exaggerated silhouettes.

Kev ua yeeb yam thiab kev ua yeeb yam, kev hloov pauv ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws yog qhov tseem ceeb rau Reed's oeuvre thiab cov yeeb yam, hu ua "Tag Nrho Lub Ntiaj Teb Ib Theem," ib kab los ntawm Shakespeare's "Raws li Koj Nyiam Nws, tau qhib los ntawm actor Florence Pugh uas tau mus hnav ib qho kev cai. los ntawm Reed rau Nina Ricci ob peb hnub tom qab ntawm BAFTAs.

Cov khoom sau, tus tsim qauv hais tias, pib nrog ib daim ntaub, ib nkawm kub lamé curtains mus cycled los ntawm lub tuam txhab ua yeeb yam London ua yeeb yam yog li nws "tseem tshawb nrhiav kev ua yeeb yam hnav, hnav ris tsho thiab lub cev raws li daim tawv nqaij thib ob hauv kev ua yeeb yam."

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