Dancer thiab suab paj nruag artist Bones the Machine hauv Allen Edmonds Park Avenue cap-toe oxfords
los ntawm Billy Kidd, los ntawm Allen Edmonds
Allen Edmonds, lub npe zoo txiv neej khau khau, yog ua kev zoo siab rau nws ib puas xyoo, tau tsim muaj nyob rau hauv 1922 hauv Belgium, WI. Nws tau hwm nws yav dhau los los ntawm dipping rau hauv nws cov ntaub ntawv kom tso tawm cov ntawv txwv ntawm cov qauv sau tau zoo, zoo li cov qauv Mora Double Monk classic, thiab saib mus rau nws lub neej yav tom ntej los ntawm kev muab Mora hauv khau ntaub.
Tam sim no lub hauv paus chaw ua haujlwm txog kaum mais ntawm txoj kev hauv Port Washington, Allen Edmonds muaj keeb kwm yav dhau los. Nws tau txais ib tiam neeg ntawm lub neej tom qab muab khau rau US Army thiab Navy thaum Ntiaj Teb Tsov Rog II. Thiab nws yog qhov kev xaiv rau txhua tus thawj tswj hwm nyob rau hnub pib ntawm Ronald Reagan, George HW Bush, Bill Clinton thiab George W. Bush mus txog rau thaum Barack Obama tsoo cov kev lig kev cai. Txog rau hnub tim, nws tau muag ntau dua 12 lab nkawm khau.
Tseem ua hauv Asmeskas, nws yog ib qho ntawm 200 American khau tuam txhab tsim khoom ntawm no, nqis los ntawm ntau dua 300 xyoo 2002. Thiab nws yog tus thawj coj tsis sib haum xeeb hauv Asmeskas cov txiv neej ua cov khau qub txeeg qub teg txij li Johnston & Murphy, nrhiav tau nyob rau hauv 1850, kaw nws qhov seem hauv Teb Chaws Asmeskas. Hoobkas tsib xyoos dhau los.
Nrog ntau npaum li cas 99% ntawm lub $86 billion tus nqi ntawm khau muag ntawm no mas, American shoemakers yog ib tug tuag yug. Niaj hnub no tsuas yog hais txog 11,000 tus neeg ua haujlwm los ntawm cov tuam txhab khau, piv rau ntau dua 20,000 xyoo 2002, thiab tsis yog txhua tus ua haujlwm hauv pem teb hauv tsev.
Allen Edmonds tsis muaj lub hom phiaj cia nws cov kua ntses zais cia ntawm Asmeskas cov khoom siv tes ua thiab zoo mus. Jay Schmidt, tus thawj tswj hwm ntawm Caleres tau hais tias "Allen Edmonds muaj 100-xyoo keeb kwm ntawm American craftsmanship, zoo thiab muaj tseeb," said Jay Schmidt.
Lub tuam txhab ntiav 135 craftspeople, ntau 2nd thiab 3rd-tiam tsim, uas pab cob qhia rau tiam tom ntej los ntawm ib tug apprentice program.
Nws tau hais tias "Nws yog lub sijhawm hwm kev coj noj coj ua rau peb lub tuam txhab vim tias peb lub tuam txhab yog tus qauv kov siab uas txhua tus khau mus txog 212-kauj ruam txheej txheem thiab tau kov txog li 60 txhais tes," nws hais.
Schmidt kuj hais txog Allen Edmonds txhawb kev ruaj ntseg ntev ua ntej nws yog fashionable. Cov neeg siv khoom ib txwm muaj peev xwm xa rov qab ib nkawm khau hnav kom tiav kev kho dua tshiab.
"Ntawm qhov nruab nrab qee qhov 26,000 nkawm khau tau tsim dua tshiab txhua xyoo thiab peb tau muab ntau dua ib lab nkawm khau rov qab rau hauv kev ncig," nws hais. "Peb cov khau yog kev nqis peev mus ib txhis vim tias ib khub tuaj yeem rov ua dua tshiab txog plaub zaug."
Customization yog lwm qhov tseem ceeb ntawm Allen Edmond tus qauv. Thaum lub sij hawm recrafting, cov neeg siv khoom tuaj yeem hloov pauv cov yam ntxwv ntawm lawv cov khub uas twb muaj lawm, xws li ntxiv cov roj hmab lossis cov xim pleev xim, thiab lub tuam txhab kuj tseem muab cov khau kho kom haum thaum yuav ib khub tshiab.
“Peb ua txhua yam. Peb tsim nws, peb tsim nws, peb muag nws thiab peb tsim nws. Peb tau txuas nrog peb cov neeg siv khoom raws li lub hom phiaj tuaj yeem ua tau, "Schmidt txuas ntxiv.
Ua raws li nws cov cuab yeej cuab tam qub txeeg qub teg, Allen Edmonds tswj kev xaiv faib. Nws ua haujlwm tshaj 60 lub khw muag khoom thiab lub vev xaib thiab nqa los ntawm cov neeg muag khoom tshwj xeeb xws li Nordstrom
Allen Edmonds khw muag khoom pem hauv ntej
los ntawm Joe Sinnott, los ntawm Allen Edmonds
Thaum Caleres tsis qhia meej txog txhua hom npe hauv nws cov npe lag luam qhia ntu ntu, suav nrog Sam Edelman, Vionic, Naturalizer, Ryka, Blowfish thiab ntau dua, nws cov lag luam lag luam nce 20% xyoo dhau ib xyoos los pab $ 1 nphom rau lub tuam txhab tag nrho. $ 2.8 nphom nyiaj tau los hauv 2021. Cov Khaub Ncaws Nto moo, nrog qee qhov 900 qhov chaw muag khoom, yog nws lwm ntu qhia.
Ntau npaum li Allen Edmonds ua kev zoo siab rau nws cov keeb kwm, nws tab tom nqis mus rau yav tom ntej los ntawm kev rov xav txog nws cov qauv qub rau cov txiv neej tiam tom ntej. Piv txwv li, nws Park Avenue cap-toe oxford tiab khau thawj zaug tau qhia hauv xyoo 1982 tseem yog nws qhov muag zoo tshaj plaws tab sis tam sim no kuj muaj nyob rau hauv ib lub tsho uas zoo li qub thiab niaj hnub.
“Muab peb cov cuab yeej cuab tam, peb muaj kev nplua nuj zoo los ntawm. Peb pom cov tiam tom ntej ntawm cov neeg siv khoom tau rov tshawb pom cov classics, tab sis peb tuaj yeem hloov pauv sai sai rau rov xav txog cov classics hauv cov ntaub ntawv sib txawv thiab cov khau uas tuaj yeem mus los ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws mus rau ib lub lis piam, suav nrog khau ntaub, khau khiab, loafers thiab tau kawg, hnav khau rau kev lag luam. thiab hnav ris tsho, "Schmidt hais
Thaum lub tuam txhab pom cov neeg rov qab los rau cov xwm txheej hauv zej zog tom qab muaj kev sib kis, nws tau qhia sai sai rau nws cov Carlyle plain-toe oxford classic nrog patent-leather sab sauv uas tam sim ntawd tua rau ib qho ntawm kaum tus qauv saum toj no lub caij nplooj ntoo hlav dhau los.
"Tib neeg nyiam xav txog cov txiv neej cov neeg siv khoom xws li qee yam ntawm Neanderthal, tab sis qhov tseeb yog peb cov neeg siv khoom txaus siab txog qhov lawv saib thiab peb muaj qee yam rau lawv txhua tus," nws hais ntxiv.
Txhawm rau qhia tias yuav ua li cas stylish hauv Park Avenue oxford, lub tuam txhab tau txais txiaj ntsig zoo Tus kws yees duab Billy Kidd mus sau 100 nto moo thiab tsis muaj npe tab sis tag nrho cov neeg zoo kawg nkaus hnav ib khub. Thiab ua raws li niaj hnub no cov kab lis kev cai suav nrog, poj niam, menyuam yaus thiab txawm tias dev muaj nyob hauv phau ntawv teev npe.
Schmidt tau hais tias "Tsis muaj leej twg tsim lub npe qub txeeg qub teg los ntawm kev sawv ntsug," Schmidt tau hais thiab ntseeg tias yav tom ntej ntawm Allen Edmonds hom yuav zoo dua li yav dhau los.
"Lawv hais tias, 'Dab tsi mus ncig, tuaj ncig,' thiab peb pom cov neeg rov qab los ntawm kev sib kis nrog kev xav kom muaj tsawg dua, zoo dua. Peb cov khau tsis pheej yig - Park Avenue oxford muag rau $ 395 - tab sis nws yog kev nqis peev uas kav ntev thiab ntev.
"Peb tau txuas nrog peb lub neej yav dhau los, txuas nrog lub sijhawm no thiab peb yuav nyob nrog rau yav tom ntej hauv 100 xyoo tom ntej," nws hais rau kev ntseeg siab.
Tau qhov twg los: https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2022/07/24/how-allen-edmonds-celebrates-100-years-of-us-shoemaker-craft/