Cov poj niam dub Mus Ntuj Push Tag Nrho Kev Lag Luam mus rau qhov kawg ntawm Kev ploj tuag

Tabnie Dozier nyob rau hauv kindergarten thaum nws pib tau txais nws cov plaub hau ncaj nrog cov tshuaj relaxers uas feem ntau muaj tib cov khoom xyaw uas siv los tshem tawm cov dej.

Dozier, leej twg yog Dub, tau siv sijhawm peb lub hlis twg ntawm lub xyoo pua tom ntej siv cov txheej txheem, qee zaum nquag li txhua rau lub lis piam. Qhov ntawd suav nrog nws 11-xyoo-laus stint ua tus tshaj tawm xov xwm hauv TV, ib txoj haujlwm uas nws xav tias nws yuav tsum ua raws li cov qauv kev zoo nkauj Eurocentric uas tsis hais txog cov plaub hau ntev. Dab tsi hloov nws lub siab tuaj yuav luag los ntawm kev sib tsoo. Nws tsiv mus thiab nrhiav tsis tau ib tug tshiab plaub hau stylist nws tso siab rau cov txheej txheem relaxer. Niaj hnub no nws tsis muaj kev npaj rov qab mus rau qhov paub hauv Dub kab lis kev cai li "creamy crack."

Dozier, 33, uas tam sim no muaj kev lag luam tawm tswv yim, hais tias "Tsis yog, kuv yuav tsis rov qab mus rau cov tshuaj so kom txaus," Forbes. "Kuv tsis tuaj yeem xav txog qhov kuv niam tau dhau los hauv xyoo 1990 thiab xav tias muaj kev ntxhov siab ntau dua ces hloov mus rau qhov xwm txheej lossis kev lees paub hauv zej zog. Tab sis tam sim no hais tias kuv muaj kuv tus kheej lub suab thiab lub audacity hnav kuv lub kaus mom txawm kuv xaiv, kuv yuav tsis rov qab mus rau cov tshuaj puas. "

Tebchaws Asmeskas kev lag luam ntawm cov plaub hau straighteners thiab relaxers, ntawm cov poj niam Dub yog kwv yees li 60% ntawm cov neeg siv khoom, tau poob qis vim kev hloov kho cov qauv kev zoo nkauj thiab kev txhawj xeeb txog kev noj qab haus huv ntawm cov khoom xyaw tshuaj.

Kev muag tshuaj ntawm cov plaub hau so rau cov khw txiav plaub hau thiab lwm cov kws tshaj lij tau poob qis rau tsawg kawg ib xyoo caum, raws li kev tshawb fawb kev lag luam Kline & Co., los ntawm kwv yees li $ 71 lab hauv 2011 txog $ 30 lab hauv 2021. Kev muag khoom xyoo dhau los poob 25% Nyob rau hauv 2020 ib leeg, Kline kws tshuaj ntsuam Agnieszka Saintemarie tau hais tias, thiab kev muag khoom txuas ntxiv poob vim "cov neeg siv khoom nyiam cov plaub hau ntuj ntau dua thiab tig mus rau cov khoom siv styling lossis cov khoom siv styling ua lwm txoj hauv kev."

Damning scientific kev tshawb fawb tau nrawm qhov poob. Cov neeg so ua rau muaj kev pheej hmoo ntau ntxiv rau mob qog noj ntshav mis, zes qe menyuam thiab lub tsev menyuam, raws li National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences. Hauv ib txoj kev tshawb no tsis ntev los no Lub koom haum pom tau tias 1.64% ntawm cov poj niam uas tsis tau siv tshuaj cov plaub hau ncaj mus rau kev tsim mob qog noj ntshav thaum muaj hnub nyoog 70 xyoo, tab sis qhov kev pheej hmoo dhia mus rau 4.05% rau cov neeg siv khoom siv ntau zaus.

"Peb qhov kev tshawb pom qhia tias cov poj niam yuav tsum xav txog lawv cov khoom siv plaub hau vim qhov tseeb tias cov tshuaj hauv cov khoom siv ncaj qha tuaj yeem cuam tshuam rau lawv txoj kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev mob qog noj ntshav hauv tsev menyuam," said Alexandra White, tus kws tshawb fawb NIEHS thiab tus thawj coj ntawm txoj kev tshawb no.

Cov plaub hau stylists thiab cov tswv khw muag khoom zoo nkauj tau hais tias lawv tsis siv lossis muag ze li ntau cov khoom siv kho kom zoo nkauj thiab ncaj ncees raws li lawv tau kaum xyoo dhau los. Ob peb tsis ntseeg qhov sib yuav rov qab.

Laquita Burnett, tus tswv ntawm Freedom Curls Salon hauv Indianapolis, tau hais tias nws tau tso tseg kev kho mob hauv 2013 tom qab nws tawm haujlwm ntawm JCPenney salon. Nws hais tias qee tus ntawm nws cov neeg siv khoom rov qab los suav nrog cov kws lij choj thiab cov kws saib xyuas neeg mob uas tau txais kev kho mob rau lawv qhov kev tshwm sim, thiab lawv yuav tsum rov qab txhua rau rau rau yim lub lis piam txhawm rau kov cov plaub hau tshiab.

Burnett tau hais tias "Yog vim li cas lawv hu nws lub ntsej muag tawg," Burnett hais. "Nws yog hom tshuaj, koj tsis tuaj yeem tso tseg tsis ua nws thiab koj yuav tsum ua nws kom koj cov plaub hau tuaj yeem nyob ncaj." Nws hais tias kev sib kis tau txo qis kev thov rau cov kev pabcuam so so raws li ntau lub tsev so kaw thiab ua rau cov poj niam tsis muaj kev xaiv tab sis mus rau ntuj.

Alnisa ​​Hanks, txawm li cas los xij, tau hais tias nws tseem muaj cov neeg siv khoom uas tau txais kev kho mob, tab sis tsawg dua nws tau siv. Raws li tsis ntev los no xyoo 2015, ntau dua 90% ntawm nws cov neeg siv khoom txhua lub limtiam ntawm Glamorous Styles Salon hauv Union, New Jersey, yuav tau txais lawv cov plaub hau so, tab sis daim duab ntawd ze rau 25% hnub no. Nws hais tias qee cov neeg siv khoom tseem nyiam nws vim tias nws tuaj yeem ua kom styling thiab tu yooj yim dua li cov plaub hau ntuj.

Hanks hais tias "Cov neeg so yuav nyob ntawm no," “Kuv tsis pom lawv mus qhov twg. Tsis yog lawv tsuas yog txiav txim siab tag nrho nws txuas nrog mob qog noj ntshav thiab ... rub lawv tawm ntawm lub txee. "

Ntawm qee lub khw muag khoom zoo nkauj, cov khoom tu plaub hau ntuj tau txais cov cuab yeej cuab tam uas cov neeg so tau siv los tuav. Ntawm M&M Beauty Supply hauv Merrillville, Indiana, piv txwv li, kev sib xyaw ntawm cov neeg so rau cov khoom tu plaub hau yog li 80-20 txog kaum xyoo dhau los, raws li tus tswv khw Dave Abdulla. Nws hais tias qhov kev tsis sib haum xeeb muaj tseeb niaj hnub no.

Environmental Working Group, ib lub koom haum tawm tswv yim, hais tias tus naj npawb ntawm cov plaub hau so uas nws taug qab hauv nws cov khoom siv tu tus kheej tau poob qis txij li xyoo 2011 thaum nws luam tawm. ib daim ntawv qhia scathing ntawm qhov khoom. Thaum lub tsev so kev ua lag luam tau hloov mus deb ntawm kev siv lub mob qog noj ntshav txuas cov tshuaj formaldehyde, tus cev lus Monica Amarelo tau hais Forbes, EWG thiab poj niam lub suab rau lub ntiaj teb yog nrhiav ib tsoom fwv txwv txiav ntawm kev siv cov tshuaj nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov plaub hau khoom los npog salons thiab. "Feem ntau ntawm cov kev kho plaub hau ncaj uas peb txhawj txog yog kev lag luam rau kev siv xwb," nws hais.

Jehcara "Summer" Nelson, tus tswv ntawm Strands of Life Natural Hair Studio hauv Hermosa Beach, California, hais tias nws zoo siab pom qhov kev thov kom deb ntawm cov neeg so. Nws tau hais tias tau ntau xyoo lawm, cov poj niam Dub tau ntsib kev nyuaj siab hauv zej zog kom ncaj lossis du lawv cov plaub hau tsuas yog txhawm rau txhaj tshuaj ntawm txoj haujlwm thiab lwm txoj hauv kev.

Nelson tau hais tias "Peb tsis tas yuav txhawj txog qhov ntawd ntau dhau lawm," “Tam sim no peb tsis tau siv ntau npaum li cas, peb tuaj yeem pib so. Thiab peb txoj haujlwm hauv zej zog tsis cuam tshuam los ntawm txoj kev uas peb hnav peb cov plaub hau. "

Tau qhov twg los: https://www.forbes.com/sites/jaredcouncil/2022/11/04/black-women-going-natural-push-entire-industry-to-the-brink-of-extinction/